Okinawan Sweet Potato

From time to time, we hear stories concerning remote areas of the globe where unusually large numbers of people live unusually long, healthy lives. This is often attributed to diet, and, in most instances, these stories turn out to be of little merit.

Recently, I became aware of a colorful new vegetable being sold in the markets of Chinatown. A little investigation led me to yet another tale of remarkable longevity in a strange and wondrous land. This time however, there seems to be some truth to the story. The product I am referring to is known by several different names, including the Japanese Sweet Potato, the Imo, the Purple Sweet Potato, and the Okinawan Sweet Potato.

The Sweet Potato is believed to have originated in Central America, and was introduced to Spain and the Philippines through Spanish explorers. From the Philippines, it made its way to China, Historical records indicate that a seedling was brought to the Japanese islands of Okinawa from China’s Fujian Province in 1605, where it quickly established itself as a miracle food. Subject to yearly typhoons that often destroyed the rice paddies, Okinawans were under constant threat of famine. The Sweet Potato, which was buried in the ground, survived these onslaughts, and provided a stable source of calories for the growing population. Today, the Okinawan diet, which includes liberal amounts of Sweet Potato, other plant foods, fish, soy products and very little meat has helped create a society that produces more Centarians than any other place on the planet. This is verified by meticulously documented birth and health records kept on the islands.

The Okinawan Sweet Potato should not be confused with the Peruvian Purple Potato, which is not a sweet potato at all, but rather a regular potato that just happens to have a blue-purple skin and purple flesh. The Okinawan Sweet Potato on the other hand, has a light brown skin, and deep lavender flesh, and, is surprisingly sweet and extremely nutritious. The color is due to anthocyanins, which act as antioxidants. They are rich in carotenoids, saponins, flavonoids, alkoloids, and tannins, and have a high vitamin E content. They are extraordinarily high in vitamin C, and are thought to contain large amounts of dioscin, an anti-inflammatory compound. There is mounting evidence that the Okinawan Sweet Potato contains a significant am ount of lycopene, the powerful anti-oxidant and carotenoid found in tomatoes that has been associated with a reduced risk of prostate cancer in many studies. A one- cup serving contains only 140 calories, and is packed with dietary fiber. In addition, the Chinese believe that the Sweet Potato is helpful in relieving the symptoms of arthritis.

In Chinatown, look for it labeled as “Japanese Sweet Potatoes” in the markets alongside other root vegetables and tubers such as Taro. My favorite preparation is an easy one; simply wash them but do not remove the skin, Slice them lengthwise, and place in an ovenproof baking dish. Drizzle with Extra Virgin Olive Oil, and salt, and roast them in a 400 degree oven, flesh side down until they can be easily pierced with the tip of a knife, This can take anywhere from 20 to 45 minutes, depending on the size.

If you are lucky enough to get to Okinawa, you can try them “stone-baked” and sold from “Imo trucks” which are a fixture on Okinawan street corners. However you enjoy them, you can take comfort in the fact that you are helping yourself beat the aging process with a delicious treat from a real-life Shangri-La.

written by
Jim Becker
Chinatown Guide

GELATO

Ice cream is and always has been, more than just dessert. It came on trucks with ringing bells when we were little; it came on sticks and in cups and in cones and in frosted silver dishes at the local ice cream parlor. It was what you ate when your tonsils were removed, when you had a great day and when you had a bad day. It is also one of the first things you ate when you went to Italy. Who invented this exquisite treat and why is “gelato” the Italian version of ice cream so different?

A fixture of Italian life for centuries, the idea for gelato is thought to have started in the Mediterranean basin during the 7th century as sharbet - the Italian sorbetto, the French sorbet and the English sherbet. In Sicily, where Arabs ruled for 300 years, “Italian ice” was made by gathering snow from Mount Etna and adding fruit, honey, floral essences, almond milk or the juice of citrus fruits. But it wasn’t until the 16th century that a Florentine named Bernardo Buontalenti, invented the first gelato by freezing sweetened milk with eggs and wine to be served at the Medici’s many sumptuous banquets. The word gelato is the past participle of the Italian verb, gelare, to freeze. The craze for refreshing frozen desserts, from an aristocratic to a popular treat, spread all over Europe. In 1660, Francesco Procopio de’ Coltelli, a native of Palermo, opened the famous Café Procopio in Paris, a luxurious “ice cream parlor”, where eating gelato became a fashionable pastime. Very soon thereafter small wooden carts appeared selling gelato on every public square in Italy.

Anyone who has tasted real gelato can immediately sense how different it is to American ice cream. Though lower in fat, often 6-8% butterfat, compared to 16-18% in store bought premium ice cream, gelato has a softer, sexier consistency with intense flavor. Too much fat tends to coat the mouth, blocking the experience of the fresh natural flavors. Gelato also has less air beaten into it and is kept at a warmer freezing temperature, allowing for a dense and velvet texture. Because it is not so cold, the taste buds do not become numb and are open to accept more of the flavor.

As with most foods in Italy, each region has its own interpretation. In the North, the gelato tends to be richer, often made with an egg and cream custard base. In central Italy, the base is custard made with milk and eggs. While in the South, gelato is often made with milk thickened with vegetable starch rather than eggs.

The serious connoisseur will look for a sign saying “Produzione Propria, Nostra Produzione or Produzione Artigianale” which means that the gelato is made on the premises. But since most sellers mix their gelati from prepared bases, this doesn’t guarantee quality. One must also look for evidence that the gelato is made daily in small batches, using only the freshest ingredients with no added chemical preservatives, emulsifiers or stabilizers. Artisan made gelato is always stored in stainless-steel tubs, never in plastic containers. Fruit flavors should reflect the season and the color should never reflect food coloring, i.e. pistachio should never be bright green.

Eating gelato is a favorite Italian pastime, a typical between meal snack. According to an Italian confection industry trade report, 75% of the gelato eaten in Italy is consumed between May and September. The report also revealed that Italians eat almost nine pounds of gelato per person annually with year-round consumption on the rise. The number of gelato flavors has also increased in recent years. Some flavors like bergamot, jasmine, licorice, and persimmon are exotic while parmesan, carrot and spinach can really challenge the taste buds. Most Italians still prefer the more traditional flavors. According to a recent poll by Eurisko, an Italian consumer research institute, the most popular flavors are cioccolato, nocciola (hazelnut), limone, fragola (strawberry), crema, stracciatella (vanilla with chocolate chips), and pistachio, in that order.

Most Italians prefer to go out to a gelateria rather than buy pre-packaged gelato to eat at home. Choosing one flavor brands the customer as a tourist. In Italy the custom is to order a few flavors in a cone or cup. This can make ordering gelato a challenge, since the various flavors need to meld/melt together successfully. It’s also not unusual to add a dab of unsweetened whipped cream to the top. In Sicily, gelato is most typically eaten in a soft, sweet brioche – the best ice-cream sandwich!

Let’s join the Italians, young and old, at any time of the day in this favorite Italian pastime. It is neither decadent nor indulgent, after all there’s both less calories and fat than in ice cream. Like stopping for an espresso, it’s an opportunity to linger, chat and people-watch...and simply one of the rituals involved with eating and living and being Italian.

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When the occasion calls for a festive dessert but you’re too busy to prepare one, create a little impromptu excitement with a little gelato topped with a simple surprise.
Crema gelato with Limoncello, Strega or Tuaca; crushed amaretti or torrone.
Cioccolato gelato with dark rum and amarena cherries; Mandarino liquor and coarsely chopped candied orange peel
Limone gelato with lemon infused grappa.
Affogato (drowned) al caffe – for each serving, place 1 bountiful scoop of vanilla gelato in a glass/cup. Pour hot unsweetened espresso over the gelato and serve immediately before the gelato melts.

previously published in the North End News

Mercato del Mare

Don’t miss the new fish store that opened in June at 99 Salem Street. I think it’s the prettiest store in the North End - Mercato del Mare. It’s been a couple of years since we have had the opportunity to buy really fresh fish in the neighborhood. Kudos to both Elizabeth Ventura and Keri Cassidy who after having worked in the restaurant industry decided to follow their dream of becoming entrepreneurs in the food business.

First, as you step down from the street into the store you will see a typical European market including details such as black and white tiles, tin ceiling, and butcher block displays. The shellfish sink is filled with a variety of iced mollusks, crustaceans and other marvels of the sea. The showcase highlights the regular Atlantic varieties of haddock, cod, whole red snapper, swordfish, tuna, calamari, salmon, and halibut. Depending on the season and luck of the catch you might find dorado, sardines, and other coveted varieties.

Keri and Elizabeth are committed to purchasing local products whenever possible – such as calamari from Point Judith and sea scallops from Nantucket (both incredibly sweet). Look for fresh sushi, marinated anchovies and seaweed salad delivered daily. There is also a variety of home made prepared foods: lobster rolls, crab salad, clam chowder, lobster bisque, a variety of ready to grill skewered fish and tuna teriyaki.

Party platters can be special ordered and delivered (within reason) – think about a beautiful platter with smoked salmon, bagels and all the traditional garnish. Tuesday is Taco Tuesday with home made fish tacos! Breads are from Sel de La Terre. There’s a rack of shelves brimming with dried pasta, olive oil and other condiments and produce to accompany seafood. Keri and Elizabeth have a commitment to high quality products and service, presented in a casual, open and friendly atmosphere. Don’t be afraid to call on them for cooking tips and seasoning advice.

Please stop buy, welcome them to the neighborhood and treat yourself to some very fresh, healthy seafood.

Mercato del Mare
99 Salem St.
Boston, MA 02113
mercatodelmare@gmail.com
Mon-Fri 10am-8pm
Sat 10am-6pm
Sun noon-5pm or when they run out of fish

August Moon Festival

In Boston’s Chinatown the community is getting ready to celebrate one of the most important dates of the lunar calendar. August 17, 2008 is this year’s date for the August Moon Festival, also known as the Mid-Autumn Festival. The Mid Autumn Festival always falls on the fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month. This is the Chinese harvest festival, and somewhat akin to our Thanksgiving Celebration. It is the time when Chinese traditionally came together to enjoy the fruits of their labor. Families would gather for a traditional harvest feast, and, after the meal go out to view the full harvest moon. Children are given bright colored lanterns to carry.

According to legend, the harvest festival played an important role in establishing the Ming Dynasty as well. From 1280 AD until 1368 AD, China was under the rule of the Mongolian Yuan Dynasty. Under the Mongolians, the Chinese were persecuted an oppressed. It was a pastry that saved them. Officials instructed bakeries to create a pastry to be delivered to all of the Chinese households. People were asked not to eat the pastry until the fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month, during the family gathering to celebrate the harvest. When they cut into the pastries, they discovered secret messages hidden inside. The messages called upon all of the Chinese citizens to rise up and slaughter the Mongolian oppressors that night during the moon viewing. The Mongolians were overthrown, and the Chinese Yuan Dynasty was established.

Today, these pastries are known as Moon Cakes, and are typically sold year-round at traditional Chinese pastry shops, although they still are strongly associated with the Mid-Autumn Festival. Moon Cakes come in a variety of sizes, and with a variety of fillings, such as sweet lotus paste, black bean paste, and mixed nut and candied fruit. Traditional Moon Cakes are somewhat round, which represents both family unity and the unity of the Chinese people in the overthrow of the Mongolian rule. The cakes are made in a wooden mold, which marks the top of the pastry with the baker’s emblem. Boxes of Moon Cakes are displayed in the window of the bakeries around the time of the Mid Autumn Festival, and are often given away as gifts to close friends and relatives. Many Moon Cakes contain a salted duck egg yolk in the center, which symbolizes the full moon. The most expensive pastries have double yolks. (Since Chinese pastries are not considered dessert, and are usually eaten as a snack in the middle of the afternoon along with a cup of tea, many traditional pastries blur the line between sweet and salty). Moon Cakes are traditionally consumed under the light of the full moon.

This year, there will be a celebration of the mid Autumn Festival on Sunday, August 17th, at the Chinatown gateway Arch. The celebration will begin at 10am and end at 5pm.

written by
Jim Becker
Chinatown Guide

Summer Figs

Yes, there’s more to figs than fig leaves and fig newtons. Figs epitomize the Mediterranean--its climate, its food, its way of life. Figs most likely originated in Asia Minor and are thought to be one of the few trees to survive the ice ages. There is said to have been a fig tree in the Garden of Eden, and in fact, the fig is one of the most talked-about fruits in the Bible. Whether or not it was the “forbidden fruit” is debatable, but it is definite that the fig tree provided the first clothing. Figs are grown all over Italy, often intermixed with grape vines and olive, almond and citrus trees. Thanks to the hot climate, Sicilian figs are perhaps the most luscious of all. Anyone who has been to Italy in the late summer would surely remember eating figs, especially if snatched from roadside trees. If you haven’t eaten a fig straight from the tree, you don’t know what a really good fig tastes like! There are about 700 fig varieties, but only about half a dozen are grown in California, our main source of fig supply.

Look for fresh figs at the greengrocer from late June to early October. “The first to come into the market in late June will be the black Mission figs which are a deep purple with pink flesh. They will be followed by what are often called the green figs: Kadota figs with their thick skin and creamy amber green color; Calimyrna figs, noted for their delicious honey-nut-like flavor and tender, golden skin; and the Adriatic fig with its golden-green skin and pale pink flesh,” said “Albee” of Alba Produce on Parmenter Street. “The North End favorite is the Calimyrna,” said Albee, “Probably because it is the most sweet and succulent, reminding people of their summer in Italy.” The popular Calimyrna is the Smyrna variety that was brought to California from Turkey in 1882, and was renamed Calimyrna in honor of its new homeland.

No need to touch figs to see if they are ripe. They don’t ripen once picked, so they must be at their peak when harvested. A short season plus difficulty in transporting make this delicate, highly perishable fruit a high-priced delicacy. Look for unblemished fruit, which exudes beads of honey-like nectar at the blossom base. Ripe figs are extremely delicate, so take great care not to squash the figs on your way home. Use figs as soon as possible, but if you must store them, carefully lay them on a paper towel, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to three days.

Fresh figs are most delicious served on their own, warmed by the sun, eaten slowly and savored. Some people peel figs, or discard the skin, but it is perfectly edible. Trim and discard the stem, which can ooze a bitter liquid. As an antipasto, fresh figs are often paired with Prosciutto crudo or salami. Try them wrapped with a very thin slice of prosciutto crudo, prosciutto affumicato, or pancetta and grilled over the barbecue. They can also be stuffed with a mixture of goat, mascarpone or gorgonzola cheese combined with chopped walnuts, almonds or pistachios. Poached in dry red wine with a hint of cinnamon or nutmeg, they make an excellent accompaniment to grilled sausages, liver, duck and game. For dessert they are fabulous when simply paired with mascarpone, fresh mint and honey. They can also be poached in sweet wine, baked in a crostata or rolled in sugar and baked in the oven until caramelized. Baked figs are fabulous on vanilla or pistachio ice cream.

Buon appetito e buon estate!

PROSCIUTTO CRUDO CON FICHI
Serve this classic antipasto with the finest cured ham from the region of Parma.
8 ripe figs
12 paper thin slices of prosciutto crudo
crusty bread
sweet butter, optional
freshly ground black pepper

Arrange the slices of prosciutto on a serving platter. Wipe the figs with a damp cloth and discard the stem. Cut the figs downward from the stem end into quarters, leaving them attached at the base. Open them up like flowers. Arrange the figs on top of the prosciutto. Serve with bread and sweet butter. Pass the pepper mill for those who like a sprinkle of freshly ground pepper.


FICHI D'ESTATE CON MASCARPONE
This dessert can be prepared in less than 5 minutes and is a perfect ending to a summer meal.
fresh black or white figs
1 T. honey per 2 figs
heavy cream
mascarpone cheese
sugar/honey
fresh mint leaves

Beat the mascarpone with some heavy cream and possibly some sugar or honey to taste. The mixture should be a little less firm but not runny. Place the cheese in a mound in the middle of a serving platter.

The figs must be at room temperature or consider warming them in a 325°F oven for 5 minutes to bring out the perfume in the fruit. Cut the figs lengthwise into halves or quarters depending on their size. Arrange them in a pinwheel fashion outside of the cheese and along the rim of the serving platter. Just before serving, heat some honey to make it easy to pour and drizzle the warm honey over the figs.

Sprinkle with minced fresh mint leaves and garnish the platter with mint sprig tips. Serve each person one or two figs with a dollop of mascarpone cream on the side.

Fresh figs available at:
Alba Produce
18 Parmenter St.
Boston, MA
no telephone

THE ART OF ITALIAN COFFEE

In a world in which there seems little time or social acceptance to permit ourselves small pleasures, one delight – coffee – remains accessible to most everyone and seldom fails to please. Unfortunately, Americans do not understand what people in Europe and the Middle East have always known: Drinking coffee is not about acquiring an energy jolt, but about pausing, reflecting, enjoying and sharing.

It is said that the coffee plant originated in Ethiopia but did not reach Europe for thousands of years. The Arabs are credited with creating the way we drink coffee today but it was the Ottoman Turks, whose vast empire made possible an international exchange of commodities when they brought coffee to the West in the saddlebags of their invading armies. The Dutch laid the groundwork for the East India coffee trade when they introduced the plant into Java in about 1600. European travelers also discovered the beverage while on the Grand Tour, and brought back a taste for it to their home countries. By 1759, Venice counted 206 coffee shops, where coffee was sipped and sold to a mesmerized clientele; 30 of those shops were on Piazza San Marco.

At present coffee is the second most widely used product in the world after oil. It is consumed at the rate of 1400 million cups per day and is the second most popular drink after water.

There are two principal families of coffee plants from the same family but of different natures, producing coffee with different qualities: Coffea Arabica and Coffea Canephora, commonly known as Arabica and Robusta. Arabica contains between 1.1% and 1.7% caffeine, while Robusta may contain up to three times as much (from 2 to 4.5%). Arabica prefers higher altitudes, is more delicate and requires more intense cultivation. Robusta, as its name implies is much more resistant to the tropical climate and to parasites. It is grown at a comparatively lower cost. Arabica coffee has a very fragrant aroma, is mild, well rounded, slightly acidic and often features a hint of chocolate with a pleasing touch of bitterness. Robusta coffees are more astringent, not as aromatic, full-flavored and more bitter.

As Americans have traveled more widely, they have come to appreciate the different tastes and preparations of coffee. If you make your coffee at home, here are a few tips on storing it to keep it fresh. According to the National Coffee Association of USA, the best way to store coffee is airtight and cool in a dark, dry place. A cupboard or pantry is ideal because the light is limited and temperature doesn’t fluctuate much. Roasted coffee begins to lose flavor after a week, ground coffee an hour after grinding. It is wise to purchase coffee in amounts proportionate to how quickly it will be consumed. Remember coffee is porous and moisture is the enemy, so never store coffee in the refrigerator.

Something as simple as coffee underscores the Italian penchant for variety. At home the Italians have little use for the espresso machines that are so popular in America. Most Italian households use the simple stovetop “moka”, that bi-level, two chambered aluminum (preferred) or steel pot in which boiling water from the bottom compartment is forced through the grinds, and collects in the top. But on every street corner, crowds usually gather throughout the day in coffee bars, each person ordering his or her particular concoction. Stimulating but containing less caffeine than any other type of coffee, Caffé espresso or simply said “un caffé” defines the daily rhythm of life in Italy. Prepared at the express order of the customer as its name indicates, this ebony nectar fills half a demitasse and is crowned with a “crema”, reddish-brown foam that floats on the surface. Other variations include: caffe ristretto- just enough coffee to cover the bottom of the cup; caffe lungo – an espresso containing a little more steamed water, usually reaching the brim of the cup; caffe macchiato – espresso “stained” with a few drops of steamed milk; latte macchiato – a glass of hot milk to which a bit of espresso is added; caffe corretto- an espresso corrected with a shot of liquor; caffe e latte – an espresso to which hot milk is added and served in a big cup or a tall glass; caffe freddo – cold, usually sweetened espresso; caffe decaffeinato – espresso made with decaffeinated coffee; doppio – double the normal dose of espresso brewed with the same amount of water; and cappuccino - the well-known combination of espresso topped with steamed, foamy milk. Italians consume cappuccino only in the morning, only a few may dust theirs with unsweetened cocoa – never cinnamon, and the cup is half the size of what we are served in America. It owes its name to the chestnut color of the robes worn by Capuchin monks. An Americano is simply an espresso with hot water added to make a larger cup of coffee and is said to have been invented for American G.I.’s during World War II.

Latte is simply milk, hot or cold, served in a glass. In Italy, syrupy flavorings would combine with mineral water, not coffee. The only thing that an Italian might put into coffee other than milk (and sometimes a shot of liquor) is an enormous amount of sugar.

Preparing a perfect espresso is a ritual of four rules. One must start with a unique blend of perfectly roasted coffee beans, ground to an exact grain, prepared in a clean optimally pressurized machine at the correct temperature by an professionally skilled operator.

Coffee should be treated as a prized commodity, storing it and brewing it with loving care. As long as we continue to do this, we can enjoy a pause, a brief break in the day to stop, renew, reenergize and savor one of life’s pleasures.

How to use a Moka pot - or stovetop espresso maker.
The stovetop espresso maker was invented in Italy in 1933 by Alfonso Bialetti. Ninety percent of the households in Italy own at least one stovetop espresso maker, and most of them have more than one size. They are made in 1-, 3-, 6-, 9- and 12 cup sizes (referring to espresso cups). The more you use your espresso maker, the better your coffee will taste, similar to using a cast iron pan. The best way to clean them is by simply rinsing the pot well with hot water, never use abrasives or wash in the dishwasher. Moka pots require periodic replacement of the rubber seal and the filters and a check that the safety release valve is not blocked.

First unscrew the two halves of the pot. Fill the bottom chamber with fresh water to the level of the valve. Fill the funnel-shaped filter with espresso ground coffee until it is level. Do not pack the coffee or tamper it down. Drop the filter into the bottom and screw the top half tightly onto the bottom. Place the coffee maker on any type of stovetop using medium heat. The water will boil and rise up quickly through the ground coffee, ultimately filling the top chamber with hot espresso. When the lower chamber is almost empty, steam bubbles mix with the upstreaming water, producing a characteristic gurgling noise. Ideally, it should be removed from the heat before it actually starts gurgling. Do not leave the pot on the stove so long that the coffee boils. Brewing should take about 3-5 minutes.

previously published in the North End News

Neighborhood News & Notes

The winter season has brought a few changes to the neighborhood. Some old familiar places have closed and a few new shops have opened. Here's a quick rundown:

(1) Martignetti Liquor Store has closed, now leased by Citizen's Bank. They are putting a few ATM machines on the Hanover St. corner and are leasing the remaining space to Cafe Graffiti (closed the Hanover St. location), Christina DeFalco - a local clothing designer who was originally on Hanover St., Finale - another location for the Boston based dessert cafe and a take-out window for Gigi Gelateria. These stores are expected to open late summer. We will be very excited to welcome Cafe Graffiti to its new location.

(2) Dairy Fresh Candy's has closed and it's future is uncertain although we believe that the business is for sale.

(3) Shake the Tree has relocated on Salem St. closer to Neptune restaurant.

(4) Giovanni Produce, Salem St. has closed and will be replaced with a fish store - Mercato di Mare - sometime this summer.

(5) Trani - the injectable ice cream store on Salem St. has closed to be replaced with a restaurant.

(6) Grezzo - a new raw food restaurant has been getting some great press - on Prince St. where Sage restaurant was.

(7) The Cafe Graffiti spot on Hanover St. will be Cafe Belmondo a cafe/restaurant.

(8) Emilio's Restaurant has been sold to the owner of Strega restaurant.

(9) La Brace restaurant has closed and Paesan's has opened in it's place.

(10) A really cute Cafe L' il Italy has opened across from the Old North church.

(11) The Cozy Corner on Salem St - near the Old North church is now serving some Brazilian dishes.